https://smpagemusic.com/bio daily 0.75 2024-03-06 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/54068446e4b087d8052e9fa6/dab87b1c-52ad-4c40-a107-38bdf98d1b55/Steve+in+Studio https://smpagemusic.com/deadend daily 0.75 2024-02-06 https://smpagemusic.com/paranormal daily 0.75 2024-02-06 https://smpagemusic.com/japan daily 0.75 2025-03-10 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/54068446e4b087d8052e9fa6/1522783738556-93KQFRU3ZCXEQ9N6TFLK/IMG_0001.jpg Japan Al is ready for our first sightseeing stop - the Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building! Towering above the city it offers 360 degree views of Tokyo from a centralized part of the city. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/54068446e4b087d8052e9fa6/1522783775608-DKO5R68NF6R9PWEEUONT/IMG_0024.jpg Japan A good sense of just how big Tokyo really is... also Mt. Fuji can be seen in the distance https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/54068446e4b087d8052e9fa6/1522783737462-VCX64UO9GTHEB3LDNW2T/IMG_0005.jpg Japan Heading into the massive grounds surrounding the Meji Shrine https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/54068446e4b087d8052e9fa6/1522783742579-TDKE9LK5KGSJW8B7YUHA/IMG_0006.jpg Japan Just outside the Meji Shrine, the fountain and ladles are used to cleanse your hands and offer a small prayer before entering the grounds. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/54068446e4b087d8052e9fa6/1522783743205-1QSCLAUZCQN1OJQMCTBN/IMG_0008.jpg Japan Opposite the building in the plaza at the Meji Shrine https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/54068446e4b087d8052e9fa6/1522783780013-8L8EPI029X2DROSGRX1P/IMG_0030.jpg Japan At most major shrines, wooden wishing plaques are offered to guests to inscribe prayers and wishes to the Gods of the shrine https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/54068446e4b087d8052e9fa6/1522783745056-TQS3V6WQR3TDBHIIKAHV/IMG_0010.jpg Japan Our iPhone X cameras offer the ability to take "portraits" where the background is stylistically blurred https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/54068446e4b087d8052e9fa6/1522783751369-G5M04US5J2IQJKTAFTY3/IMG_0014.jpg Japan Here's Al next to one of the latterns lining the paths leading to the Meji Shrine https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/54068446e4b087d8052e9fa6/1522783764996-7DA1287VCIIONAKLETKJ/IMG_0019.jpg Japan Next stop: Harajuku! Takeshita Street is the main hub for Japanese youth culture. There were many shops devoted to cartoon characters, J-Pop music groups, and decadent and fun desserts. It reminded us of the Jersey Shore boardwalk! https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/54068446e4b087d8052e9fa6/1522783758128-CNT9TZRFAO9ZDEMZDNR8/IMG_0018.jpg Japan On Takeshita Street we noticed the first of many "Cat Cafes" we would see - cafes where you can visit with a bunch of cats! There are also hedgehog, owl, and many other animal cafes throughout the city https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/54068446e4b087d8052e9fa6/1522783786756-XWEW9WM41DA2MUBKWHS2/IMG_0036.jpg Japan Here are some presumably local youths enjoying a massive cotton candy https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/54068446e4b087d8052e9fa6/1522783748966-HHKVKOZ2GHCXGWI57V6I/IMG_0016.jpg Japan Here's Al drinking a beer with lunch - we looked up an amazing gyoza place right in Harajuku and waited about 15 mins to get in https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/54068446e4b087d8052e9fa6/1522783781990-BOE2K2NSQD8WQC2PUP5Y/IMG_0033.jpg Japan Our first lunch in Japan - gyoza from a well reviewed spot in Harajuku https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/54068446e4b087d8052e9fa6/1522783786443-RF99LIEWYTOVT4GUWOWR/IMG_0035.jpg Japan Headed to the top of an impressive new mall that had tons of different brands - many were American https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/54068446e4b087d8052e9fa6/1522783758079-0193RAJFONZTJAEYFEFF/IMG_0017.jpg Japan After lunch we took a short rest and Al got some Starbucks. We found out about this spot online - it was in a super new (and cool) mall and had a great view of a major cross street in the heart of Harajuku https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/54068446e4b087d8052e9fa6/1522783889661-DI1AH5D8QIDOG69TQHVY/IMG_0512.jpg Japan While headed for our next stop, Shibuya Crossing, we found a nice quiet shrine with a large koi pond leading up to it https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/54068446e4b087d8052e9fa6/1522783860037-GJLKPEK6KVUE40IQBA9N/IMG_0053.jpg Japan The calm before the storm... Shibuya Crossing at magic hour! This was just before about 500 people walked through the middle of this intersection which allows you to cross in any direction https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/54068446e4b087d8052e9fa6/1522783775053-NSBZJA8P3O2T57L01H71/IMG_0022.jpg Japan Looking down on Shibuya Crossing. We read about this secret place high up on the 27th floor of a hotel that overlooks the intersection. We had to use two elevators and pretend we were guests to get there! https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/54068446e4b087d8052e9fa6/1522783765089-JAUJJW4P6BFK3NBMW3M9/IMG_0021.jpg Japan Near Shibuya Crossing, we had never seen so many bikes parked somewhere before - most without any locks! https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/54068446e4b087d8052e9fa6/1522783793353-E57MY3BK6ZI5NBKAZQG3/IMG_0037.jpg Japan Al took this great photo wandering around in a high end shopping area between Harajuku and Shibuya called Omotesandō Hills https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/54068446e4b087d8052e9fa6/1522783879736-DFZWJ6HJMBN6XG3I6GJM/IMG_0087.jpg Japan This was our bathroom in our first hotel. It features the first of many amazing eletronic toilets we would encounter and it was probably the greatest shower we've EVER used - the water pressure and temperature were heaven-sent! https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/54068446e4b087d8052e9fa6/1522783947775-ZXFEIJDOCAEC6DD67JCE/IMG_0606.jpg Japan We learned from Al's family friend Antje that vending machines and convenience stores offer hot beverage sections. Here is a typical one in a FamilyMart that offers various coffee drinks at an ideal hot (but not too hot) temperature https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/54068446e4b087d8052e9fa6/1522783898775-3L1V7FVEIXFT6KY0YGXR/IMG_0550.jpg Japan Steve bought these several times from several different convenience stores. They are pancake snacks - complete with butter and a maple syrup jelly inside! https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/54068446e4b087d8052e9fa6/1522783912534-12HH1DUV2F3X85JAEMTT/IMG_0559.jpg Japan Just outside the Tokyo Imperial Palace. We registered many months in advance for a more detailed, inside tour of the grounds. They neglected to let us know until our arrival that we would need an English phone app to understand anything that was said on the tour https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/54068446e4b087d8052e9fa6/1522783791732-Q2L1YH3AMTOYJNN4UI3P/IMG_0042.jpg Japan One of the buildings inside the grounds of the Imperial Palace https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/54068446e4b087d8052e9fa6/1522783858704-T9FH5H3IE5PAF17GUKEO/IMG_0056.jpg Japan After waiting for the rest of the 150 person tour group to move on, Al poses outside the main residence at the Imperial Palace. The glass surrounding it is bulletproof and the building was VERY BIG https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/54068446e4b087d8052e9fa6/1522783798046-98QLWF5EP752SB9UBCOT/IMG_0043.jpg Japan Although we didn't understand anything he said, the tour guide kept us moving at a good clip https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/54068446e4b087d8052e9fa6/1522783932404-WABNZR6TEMF0AW3DRI0X/IMG_0567.jpg Japan One of the oldest interior buildings on the grounds of the Imperial Palace https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/54068446e4b087d8052e9fa6/1522783800939-YYE84TXSYX1ZWRU8L64W/IMG_0044.jpg Japan Outside the grounds of the Imperial Palace. The grounds are located in the middle of one of the busiest places in Tokyo - an area with tons of skyscrapers and where many people work https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/54068446e4b087d8052e9fa6/1522783869144-W5X39A2XIG6OR04RJVPI/IMG_0060.jpg Japan This was the first stop on our Sake Experience with our guide Noriko. The large red gate is called a Tori Gate, its color is often red or orange to signify the importance of the sun in Japanese culture. They are often very large so that the Shinto Gods may find their way through the gate so that guests can pray to them further inside the shrine building https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/54068446e4b087d8052e9fa6/1522783867146-EEM05OOWY43WPKIEKG39/IMG_0061.jpg Japan Noriko and Alix inspecting some sake labels in a grocery store in Kichijōji. We loved this area, it was far to the west of the Tokyo city center and offered us a different, more relaxed and neighborhood-y feel than what we had seen in Tokyo up to that point https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/54068446e4b087d8052e9fa6/1522783803728-QESQO9DJLGOTQGREXIXH/IMG_0046.jpg Japan Noriko and Steve wandering through the open air market in Kichijōji. Noriko showed us what to look for on sake labels to have a better idea of the quality and where it came from https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/54068446e4b087d8052e9fa6/1522783942302-33X6HL2ZAZ2RDPZPD7BJ/IMG_0599.jpg Japan The izakaya (term for Japanese neighborhood pubs) we visited after wandering around with our guide. Noriko helped us order 3 different sakes to try and we had some great yakitori (grilled meat) to go with it https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/54068446e4b087d8052e9fa6/1522783808445-DIEND5F842NYFN1Q44FY/IMG_0049.jpg Japan Enjoying our sake! https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/54068446e4b087d8052e9fa6/1522783807070-X6DD5AWIGKPJ9TIO0Y70/IMG_0048.jpg Japan Top down view of our table and some sake in the izakaya https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/54068446e4b087d8052e9fa6/1522783882187-W6FXHYWD4VOF3TWY6P6S/IMG_0187.JPG Japan A selfie with Noriko, our really awesome and humble tour guide and sake expert! https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/54068446e4b087d8052e9fa6/1522783852881-3TEAREZE18H1GLNOU7AL/IMG_0052.jpg Japan After hanging with Noriko we headed back into the main city hub to meet up with Alix's childhood neighbor and friend Antje - who now lives in Tokyo with her husband Dave and their two kids. They took us to a great yakitori spot near their apartment https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/54068446e4b087d8052e9fa6/1522783875971-32UFP1ZGUMWAKUYOD0TP/IMG_0064.jpg Japan Photo with Antje and Dave - they made us feel extremely welcome, showed us a great time, and gave us some interesting perspective on what its like to be Americans living in Tokyo! https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/54068446e4b087d8052e9fa6/1522783872730-TRUV9XW4OB4BG3OKDG34/IMG_0063.jpg Japan At the yakitori joint, you had to take your shoes off before entering https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/54068446e4b087d8052e9fa6/1522783852983-5KPOYJSNWIUKRHUZIAWZ/IMG_0051.jpg Japan Some of the yakitori we got to enjoy with Antje and Dave https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/54068446e4b087d8052e9fa6/1522783877619-7S7AZMQ7DPKQHI9KEXMA/IMG_0065.jpg Japan After dinner with Antje and Dave, walking back to the metro station, it dawned on us just how clean and expertly designed Tokyo is. This was our last night in Tokyo and we were really starting to get the hang of being there and having fun! https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/54068446e4b087d8052e9fa6/1522781666756-DKLZWB3J0DD3W7OCV0FG/IMG_0068.jpg Japan After a quick shinkansen ride, we arrive in Hakone, ready to explore! https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/54068446e4b087d8052e9fa6/1522781674544-1MZSDXB2E5DMYHUF8N8U/IMG_0071.jpg Japan The first of many restaurants with gigantic crustaceans crawling up the walls, a running theme in Japanese cities. This is in the Yumoto area of Hakone, where the main train station is located. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/54068446e4b087d8052e9fa6/1522781851126-8DHMPA4WE6974J4JB85C/IMG_0644.jpg Japan High in the Hakone mountains, we made our way to the renowned Hakone Open Air Musuem. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/54068446e4b087d8052e9fa6/1522781669817-B65OPNXYHY66LJXELHL0/IMG_0073.jpg Japan Naturally, we don't remember any of the artists for these sculptures, but they were breathtaking regardless! https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/54068446e4b087d8052e9fa6/1522781742621-MWDUPP4MGYPKHMDYAP9X/IMG_0088.jpg Japan https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/54068446e4b087d8052e9fa6/1522781738561-DJ2RSWY7SM0ZIPGC51W4/IMG_0091.jpg Japan https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/54068446e4b087d8052e9fa6/1522781676347-S8B4U4S4OFWRQ65AW5B8/IMG_0077.jpg Japan A cute couple taking in the view under some plum blossoms. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/54068446e4b087d8052e9fa6/1522781743103-NLTWRRV9RXAJ6O8QPYXW/IMG_0093.jpg Japan https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/54068446e4b087d8052e9fa6/1522781748216-DWXTEHJOGR33GEYPC2A2/IMG_0094.jpg Japan A pair of schoolgirls on their afternoon commute on the Hakone Tozan Line, a very old (and slow) railway line with tons of switchbacks that carries locals and tourists alike throughout Hakone. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/54068446e4b087d8052e9fa6/1522781666514-6EV9T1YKF1Y8119QZCXC/IMG_0070.jpg Japan The entryway to our ryokan, Yeaikan. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/54068446e4b087d8052e9fa6/1522781753531-RGCSY79D4V35ZILELUTD/IMG_0098.jpg Japan The quaint entryway to our ryokan suite. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/54068446e4b087d8052e9fa6/1522781846304-ISF7J5OFWLISYJV68BQP/IMG_0380.JPG Japan In our complimentary yukata. All guests are provided with cotton yukata and obi belts and are expected to wear them around the premises during their stay. We had no problem lounging around in these! https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/54068446e4b087d8052e9fa6/1522781679535-3GYYO7SVRYQPBSI63YAN/IMG_0080.jpg Japan Our living room table. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/54068446e4b087d8052e9fa6/1522781680845-MAXG3YPUU37IQHSPOJE7/IMG_0081.jpg Japan Our bedroom, complete with futon mattresses atop tatami mats, straw mats used in tradition Japanese homes and guesthouses. Comfy for one night, but our Western backs are not used to these sleeping arrangements. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/54068446e4b087d8052e9fa6/1522781684638-6EAZTYWTU27WWIJHXN7D/IMG_0083.jpg Japan Fed from local hot (very hot!) springs, our room had a private onsen bath. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/54068446e4b087d8052e9fa6/1522781790047-W2VL1PLBSIR4BDYB760R/IMG_0104.jpg Japan Disclaimer: this is not photoshopped. This is the real view from our onsen. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/54068446e4b087d8052e9fa6/1522781747619-PICRJUCX2AYHNNBB8Y46/IMG_0095.jpg Japan The charm of a traditional ryokan came with a healthy dose of confusion for us non-Japanese speakers. How do you steep this tea? How do you use the electric kettle? All good questions, with very little answers. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/54068446e4b087d8052e9fa6/1522781687204-XHH7SLT73GB5EXDI5REZ/IMG_0087+2.jpg Japan A traditional kaiseki meal was served directly in our room. We knew we were eating beautiful, locally-sourced dishes ... but that was about all we knew :) https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/54068446e4b087d8052e9fa6/1522781689896-ZVLQCN1XMVSM2S9QNO1Q/IMG_0088+2.jpg Japan Presentation is everything. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/54068446e4b087d8052e9fa6/1522781755745-FAEK5C9X4IEVGTRLAJJ3/IMG_0096+2.jpg Japan We stumbled upon this small shrine near our ryokan during an early morning stroll. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/54068446e4b087d8052e9fa6/1522781766168-P0J2KDO8NORLR6QTPDO7/IMG_0102.jpg Japan More little details in the shrine. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/54068446e4b087d8052e9fa6/1522781758205-QRK00D6RJZTETI5Y6S0S/IMG_0101+2.jpg Japan Kitsune, Japanese for "fox," are found inside many shrines. They are often revered as protectors. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/54068446e4b087d8052e9fa6/1522781764460-RZU7ZX060480P3BJ67JZ/IMG_0102+2.jpg Japan A waterfall along the river in Hakone. We even spotted a few fishermen out here one morning. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/54068446e4b087d8052e9fa6/1522781791657-BJK0O3PCIZG4SDYVFB6I/IMG_0103.jpg Japan Coming from street-art capitals Philly & LA, we always stopped in our tracks when we came across murals or graffiti (of which we didn't see much). https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/54068446e4b087d8052e9fa6/1522781800008-9YA6PJH257WWS363GOR5/IMG_0107.jpg Japan A common sight a shrines: walls of fortunes tied to poles. Visitors can buy fortunes for a few hundred yen and tie them up in hopes that they'll come true! https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/54068446e4b087d8052e9fa6/1522781797917-N0R113XJ82RHVBRVK8HL/IMG_0108.jpg Japan Another "portrait mode" attempt with this bronze dragon at Hakone Shrine. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/54068446e4b087d8052e9fa6/1522781803563-W0YZMYSE7M7YEVSKKXSH/IMG_0109+%281%29.jpg Japan People lined up to ring the suzu bell at the Hakone Shrine before praying. The bell is meant to awaken the gods to hear your prayers. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/54068446e4b087d8052e9fa6/1522781804127-80ZB8P4G76MTC8JAT898/IMG_0111+2.jpg Japan https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/54068446e4b087d8052e9fa6/1522781816227-I5IPMMNCY3URP6JQNPD2/IMG_0113+2.jpg Japan Most shrines have partially-hidden mini shrines sprinkled across their grounds. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/54068446e4b087d8052e9fa6/1522781820535-X0AI7ZGUOGE8Y8HLEHOY/IMG_0114+%281%29.jpg Japan This was one of the "must see" spots for Al. Having spotted this torii gate on Lake Ashi in almost every website about Hakone, we knew we couldn't leave without making a stop here. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/54068446e4b087d8052e9fa6/1522781836017-7LT9PPXXP5CRZYT5M8VA/IMG_0115+2.jpg Japan A long line of very cordial tourists took turns taking photos for each other. Once you get the the gate, it's customary to pass your phone/camera to the next couple/group in line to snap your photo. Luckily we had savvy photographers behind us. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/54068446e4b087d8052e9fa6/1522781810132-QNEJEKD0V8AQ83SBIPMI/IMG_0111.jpg Japan The sun came out for a bit before the fog rolled in on the lake on our way out of Hakone. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/54068446e4b087d8052e9fa6/1522781816858-WLBA9PF8CJ2YVIIF81ZB/IMG_0113.jpg Japan Our shinkansen snack--salmon nigiri and mystery omusubi. These handroll-type snacks never had english text, so we never knew what would be tucked inside the seaweed and rice. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/54068446e4b087d8052e9fa6/1522781833810-XSIE4ZIDZR300620NB96/IMG_0114.jpg Japan Yes. The tiniest little soy sauce container that we ever did see! https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/54068446e4b087d8052e9fa6/1522782482476-8UFDSCTZZP6BON1LGLLG/IMG_0318.jpg Japan We arrived in Kyoto Station during rush hour on a weeknight. We used public transportation throughout our trip and learned that different modes of transportation ruled in different cities--Kyoto = buses, Tokyo = trains/subways. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/54068446e4b087d8052e9fa6/1522782098507-Y9O93MN088SC3IMV4QL5/IMG_0122.jpg Japan GLORIOUS IPPUDO! Although there was a line, our visit to Ippudo felt like it was over before it began. Within 15 minutes of sitting down, we drank our Asahi and slurped our ramen (spicy for Al, classic for Steve), and emerged back in the alley, full and bleary-eyed. "I think that was the best ramen I've ever had." https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/54068446e4b087d8052e9fa6/1522782119854-WKD0QK9WJ2F3ZC4DMRI0/IMG_0174.jpg Japan Ichiriki Chaya, a 300+ year old tea house on Hanamikoji Dori, the main street in the Geisha District. Tea houses in this area are very high-end, invitation-only establishments frequented by politicians and businessmen, where geisha serve and entertain guests. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/54068446e4b087d8052e9fa6/1522782099608-GI3QFZ0RPR2LUUHVHCGV/IMG_0160.jpg Japan Kyoto is full of female tourists wearing colorful, rented kimonos and sandals to dress the part of geisha. There are only 300 geisha in Japan, and it is highly competitive work! In the Gion, where all geisha schools are located, we spotted a couple women in muted kimonos sneaking between buildings. Real geisha? We'll never know! https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/54068446e4b087d8052e9fa6/1522782102946-CRRCJ7CLP7VW333LQM7M/IMG_0162.jpg Japan One of many the fat cats we saw lurking around. Must be all that fresh fish they're eating! https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/54068446e4b087d8052e9fa6/1522782104913-F5KO6GUKWY3ATNQ9ES7U/IMG_0164.jpg Japan Kiyomizu-dera temple is a gigantic buddhist temple atop a hill overlooking all of Kyoto. It is known as the "water temple" for its famous waterfall inside. Mizu means water in Japanese. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/54068446e4b087d8052e9fa6/1522782113800-W9QUF3FLCF6U4SBV5YZ8/IMG_0171.jpg Japan We queued up with everyone else at the Otowa Waterfall, where each stream represents a different form of luck--longevity, success at school and a fortunate love life. With a long line of luck-seekers behind us, we have no idea from which stream we sipped. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/54068446e4b087d8052e9fa6/1522782114711-TQ4JUHH688DEFSOMRVBI/IMG_0172.jpg Japan Powering through a rainy morning sightseeing slog. Many of these temples are beautifully maintained, without a chip or drip of paint. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/54068446e4b087d8052e9fa6/1522782110462-GTX4AD3E52UBNIDUWEZZ/IMG_0165.jpg Japan The view looking down from the main hall of Kiyomizudera. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/54068446e4b087d8052e9fa6/1522782126717-SE6XR25KLW2YCEFB7RK7/IMG_0177.JPG Japan The Higashiyama district is packed with little streets like this one, Sannen-zaka, lined with traditional shops and restaurants. Surprisingly, full-sized cars still push their way through these mini streets. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/54068446e4b087d8052e9fa6/1522782440664-5JSJM4XO4GCDUO7NTQSU/IMG_0231.jpg Japan We learned from that these colorful balls are actually monkeys with their hands and feet bound, representing the control desires we all have inside. For your wish to be granted, you have to write down a desire you will give up, and wrap it up in the monkey ball. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/54068446e4b087d8052e9fa6/1522782127741-J4NEIGXRQ6XRITNTSJJQ/IMG_0180.jpg Japan Many of the larger shrines and temples have rows upon rows of paper lanterns outside. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/54068446e4b087d8052e9fa6/1522782122231-ZRX78498DHA43E22UXR4/IMG_0176.jpg Japan A tranquil moment at Kennin-ji, one of the oldest zen buddhist temples in Japan. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/54068446e4b087d8052e9fa6/1522782132157-L0HUHS7MP8TK6TTB6W9I/IMG_0182.jpg Japan Nishiki Market is a five-block food market tucked away behind one of Kyoto's main thoroughfares. It was jam packed with tourists and locals alike. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/54068446e4b087d8052e9fa6/1522782130704-92B0LIH8KBHJTBNY3B75/IMG_0183.jpg Japan The stalls in Nishiki were full of little one-bite snacks, like this octopus and quail egg lollipop (which we couldn't muster up enough courage to try). Alix was in pickle heaven, though, sampling from the barrels upon barrels of various pickled everything! https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/54068446e4b087d8052e9fa6/1522782138311-6DMTD2E9HIANUFMMOBKL/IMG_0184.jpg Japan Seafood galore. Some stalls were serving up fresh & raw seafood to be eaten on the spot -- they'd open up oysters for you to knock back, discard the shells, and continue your market stroll. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/54068446e4b087d8052e9fa6/1522782445052-Z6CMK8CZY7U24X55OVU6/IMG_0233.jpg Japan Alix was in pickle heaven, sampling from the barrels upon barrels of various pickled everything! https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/54068446e4b087d8052e9fa6/1522782138782-6YN3LCNC68FD9U4V4WGX/IMG_0186.jpg Japan A cute chopstick shop that was very reminiscent of a wand shop you might find in Diagon Alley. We couldn't help ourselves and picked up a few chopsticks rests. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/54068446e4b087d8052e9fa6/1522782445510-AJJLH8D4WZXH7CLLB4HX/IMG_0234.jpg Japan Steve found a few craft beer spots for us to try. This one, Before 9, had some local IPA on tap! https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/54068446e4b087d8052e9fa6/1522782146119-0K06LXSQ1AD3U5GHJIRO/IMG_0190.jpg Japan The taps at Before 9. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/54068446e4b087d8052e9fa6/1522782142057-AIX6W9D328ENO6BAM5XR/IMG_0188.jpg Japan A couple of white delicious IPAs from a local brewery. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/54068446e4b087d8052e9fa6/1522782144844-EBVZ59D48XXBP2R2BHRV/IMG_0189.jpg Japan Perfect for Steve, the loft bar was projecting the Italian classic Cinema Paradiso on the wall. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/54068446e4b087d8052e9fa6/1522782148431-PFD5A5M0FMN9MDHQ821M/IMG_0192.jpg Japan We looked up a local ramen joint not far from Before 9 which was a good bit of distance away from the tourist core where we were staying. One chef spoke near perfect english as he begrudgingly explained how to order from the vending machine before sitting down. The ramen was excellent! https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/54068446e4b087d8052e9fa6/1522782150748-DHDFAOQQ72ARXAWP6KMT/IMG_0194.jpg Japan Some sort of homespun museum we came across wandering around the Gion area one night. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/54068446e4b087d8052e9fa6/1522782393809-Y2EP0P4RYBF4PN6S87CZ/IMG_0196.jpg Japan Al made friends with the Kyoto Metro mascot as we were hustling to our next bus ride. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/54068446e4b087d8052e9fa6/1522784395423-QHB0T1BSSJ41T4H9094B/IMG_1018.jpg Japan A model of modern public transportation efficiency, the bus stops used a system which tells you what bus lines are nearby and how many stops away they are. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/54068446e4b087d8052e9fa6/1522782391697-GO9OGBO4FH5YU43MDC8Q/IMG_0201.jpg Japan Steve looks on at the awe-inspiring Kinkaku-ji on our second day in Kyoto. Unlike our rainy first full day, we couldn't have asked for better weather. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/54068446e4b087d8052e9fa6/1522782396279-YEARAFI16ID90EXV2MF6/IMG_0202.jpg Japan Kinkaku-ji in all its golden glory. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/54068446e4b087d8052e9fa6/1522782400128-7J1EE1I3DWNIQATR17BO/IMG_0205.jpg Japan Wider shot of Kinkaku-ji showing off the wonderful pond and surrounding grounds that enhance its beauty. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/54068446e4b087d8052e9fa6/1522782402066-N2HB3PWFW6DRJ0UVR66H/IMG_0206.jpg Japan Alix lighting a prayer candle at the shrine on the grounds of Kinkaku-ji. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/54068446e4b087d8052e9fa6/1522782459830-W1WGPZROCIUWLQTPFS65/IMG_0237.jpg Japan Very old steps into nature on the grounds of Kinkaku-ji. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/54068446e4b087d8052e9fa6/1522782413734-ZAJXBV9XYFZDPE8JXZIO/IMG_0211.jpg Japan Just missed those famous cherry blossoms by about a week! https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/54068446e4b087d8052e9fa6/1522782407724-N7RRDT0W82C0BZG2DQNR/IMG_0212.jpg Japan Our next stop was a cluster of sightseeing spots on the western side of Kyoto. This little stone flautist was in a massive arrangement of similar figures on the grounds of Tenryu-ji temple. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/54068446e4b087d8052e9fa6/1522782415559-643BMJOTSQDVKL83MIUZ/IMG_0214.jpg Japan The beautiful and tremendously serene backyard pond of Tenryu-ji temple. We loved the idea of a ancient monk sitting on the wooden deck of the temple and looking out over the pond over hours of meditation. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/54068446e4b087d8052e9fa6/1522782403958-HQ9NT2YH3Q0KT2Q138JG/IMG_0207.JPG Japan A vending machine had a "limited edition" peach Coke. It was delicilous! https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/54068446e4b087d8052e9fa6/1522782423607-WSXAWQ9PCTVTAI5U0621/IMG_0217.jpg Japan Alix pausing for a moment of reflection in the famous bamboo grove adjacent to the temple. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/54068446e4b087d8052e9fa6/1522784407814-O47CGVOZUOBS36KBXBZ1/IMG_0993.jpg Japan Hard to not pause and reflect on power and beauty of Japan's natural landscape on this beautiful day. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/54068446e4b087d8052e9fa6/1522782426003-58PJVU8RL1F2QDIJ0PI3/IMG_0218.jpg Japan https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/54068446e4b087d8052e9fa6/1522782429155-5L1VZDJHHGKGZ0RGQHER/IMG_0222.jpg Japan After a long 8 hrs of sightseeing we decided we should have an early dinner of sushi. Perfectly timed and located, this sushi shop was not too far from the bamboo grove. It was noted on a several blogs as being quality, western-friendly and affordable. And it was! https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/54068446e4b087d8052e9fa6/1522782431001-HMD9E1G1EGJHOGJQOYWX/IMG_0223.jpg Japan The menu offered up along the wall in many columns. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/54068446e4b087d8052e9fa6/1522782437244-H8VXEMWKDFMUDUMJ6ZR1/IMG_0224.jpg Japan Just after sunset wandering around the area near our Airbnb. Unlike the countless narrow alleys, this street is a major thoroughfare in Kyoto. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/54068446e4b087d8052e9fa6/1522782450973-7S5KE406B0IE5YQX7X7N/IMG_0235.jpg Japan Wandering around the narrow streets of the Gion district after dark. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/54068446e4b087d8052e9fa6/1522782458796-R7SV8I1GZXB3YK15H8B0/IMG_0240.jpg Japan https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/54068446e4b087d8052e9fa6/1522782469512-VGXR2URV0H0BY9KXXF7Y/IMG_0308.jpg Japan After Nara, we made our way to one of the most famous sites in Jaapan--the Fushimi Inari Shrine. Each of the thousands of vermillion torii gates that lead up Mt. Inari are donated by individuals or companies. The size of the gate corresponds with the amount of money they donate, and they get to write their name on the gate. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/54068446e4b087d8052e9fa6/1522782472635-056WGWWJ7PDY6FYLPU0J/IMG_0309.JPG Japan The first 100 yards in the gates were clogged with tourists snapping pictures. Thankfully, the trail thinned out the further up the mountain we climbed. This made for a few tranquil moments in these orange tunnels under a canopy of trees. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/54068446e4b087d8052e9fa6/1522782566779-YJN8QJ3BOZOJX6H16JS2/IMG_0262.jpg Japan https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/54068446e4b087d8052e9fa6/1522782478241-JTSZGWAI3I2V7B8W2VB4/IMG_0311.jpg Japan While we were looping back down the mountain, we spotted this little furry friend who belonged to one of the shopkeepers along the path. After a full week away from our girl Toki, we were happy to give this guy some love. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/54068446e4b087d8052e9fa6/1522782571110-6BBQIA16PBPG1RMJPBS3/IMG_0266.jpg Japan We decided to purchase a torii gate souvenir for ourselves, and upon handing over our yen coin, the shopkeeper asked if we wanted our names written on it. He then proceeded to sit down, translate our names, and fully inscribe our names, the shrine name, and the date in Japanese. We assumed there'd be an up-charge for this, but he bowed with an "Arigatogozaimasu" (thank you very much) and we were on our way. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/54068446e4b087d8052e9fa6/1522782478454-W0VAI59LIVBO0UTVV040/IMG_0314.JPG Japan Sunday nights apparently have similar in closing hours to restaurants in the U.S., and so our options were limited for our final dinner. In a very uncharacteristic move, we went back to Ippudo for a second meal because they were open late. And obviously, from this picture, you can tell it did NOT disappoint. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/54068446e4b087d8052e9fa6/1522782482258-QS55F4HJFPQPHRQVC1EN/IMG_0316.jpg Japan Steve + Al + Ippudo = <3 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/54068446e4b087d8052e9fa6/1522782465497-EIS4L3S49397PWJQ144H/IMG_0273.jpg Japan When we arrived in Kyoto Station initially, we immediately hopped on a metro headed towards our Airbnb. We missed the fact that above ground was a MASSIVE and beautifully designed train station. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/54068446e4b087d8052e9fa6/1522782463338-02N51678Y0OKY86N8WK0/IMG_0250.jpg Japan What was a last resort for breakfast in Kyoto Station as we headed to Nara for a day trip ended up being delicious - meat pies and donuts! https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/54068446e4b087d8052e9fa6/1522782573344-51YOS8UFWBPC8EJP9AMJ/IMG_0276.jpg Japan Kofuku-ji was our first stop in Nara. Only a few buildings remain, including this 5-story pagoda (the second tallest in Japan), on grounds that were once home to more than 150 temple buildings. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/54068446e4b087d8052e9fa6/1522782579429-5SAFIJM0SPNTLK59CSW3/IMG_0280.jpg Japan One of the many deer around Nara park, just lounging and waiting for us humans to offer up some deer biscuits purchased for 200Y from local vendors. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/54068446e4b087d8052e9fa6/1522782583170-YJXWU6FWIJYNZHRDUDA1/IMG_0282.jpg Japan This little deer was waiting patiently for snack for Alix. Then back to snoozing in the shade. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/54068446e4b087d8052e9fa6/1522782591224-Z87V4TY190OBQ42SXFAG/IMG_0284.jpg Japan These gigantic wooden guardian sculptures flank the wooden gate leading to the Todai-ji temple. Towering at almost 30 feet tall, these guys were more striking than photos can capture. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/54068446e4b087d8052e9fa6/1522782592259-V6PPF59QJLNSJBOHXXM2/IMG_0285.jpg Japan https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/54068446e4b087d8052e9fa6/1522782598173-HMKAAV12Z50MD8MGNJGD/IMG_0287.jpg Japan Steve was quick on the draw to capture this kodak moment of a team (or class?) in matching Gap gear. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/54068446e4b087d8052e9fa6/1522782560721-CPAIHW4IPA70Z5FZ6GFF/IMG_0255.jpg Japan One beautiful shot of the Great Buddha Hall in Todai-ji. Although it might not look as breathtaking in photos, this temple was one of Alix and Steve's favorite of the trip. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/54068446e4b087d8052e9fa6/1522782585707-LEEL707GWH149R1TBI2E/IMG_0283.jpg Japan The Great Buddha Hall is the largest wooden structure in the world. It was burned down twice over the years, and was actually decreased in size upon the last rebuilding. Hard to believe it could be even bigger than this. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/54068446e4b087d8052e9fa6/1522782597959-FGV3GQC4Y635GU8UF9FB/IMG_0290.jpg Japan https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/54068446e4b087d8052e9fa6/1522782605198-MLDCQ3U2UADZNNT96YRL/IMG_0291.jpg Japan https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/54068446e4b087d8052e9fa6/1522782605321-ENELC5QQYLYCQHUG3LO8/IMG_0292.JPG Japan We shuffled thorugh the Great Buddha Hall with tons of other tourists to take in the Daibutsu in all his glory. He sits upon gigantic bronze lotus leaves inscribed with the story of the world of enlightenment. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/54068446e4b087d8052e9fa6/1522782613350-JJ7KJHUISY4E3O9XKG4Z/IMG_0301.jpg Japan Nara is home to a few world famous gardens, including this one: Yoshikien. Al read about its free admission for foreign visitors, so we took a stroll through its three sections of japanese gardens --moss, pond, and tea ceremony. There was a beautiful old thatched roof house that was once used for tea ceremonies. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/54068446e4b087d8052e9fa6/1522782609534-D0U0QSXNPHH2TB2XGF9R/IMG_0296.jpg Japan This guy got the last of Steve's crackers. Most of the deer were very calm, but we saw a few ganging up on visitors who tried to walk away without giving up all their crackers. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/54068446e4b087d8052e9fa6/1522782561945-1QX1F937GSFBQAQ8LD44/IMG_0258.jpg Japan Characters like this are all over Japan, welcoming customers into shops and restaurants. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/54068446e4b087d8052e9fa6/1522782565758-GXTCGL5AQBTKH76OQST2/IMG_0261.jpg Japan Before hopping on the train back to Kyoto, we stopped at Tonkatsu Ganko for some famed pork cutlets. Steve ordered the curry and Alix braved the full meal, with miso and rice. Each dish is served with a coleslaw that you can dress yourself. MMMM! https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/54068446e4b087d8052e9fa6/1522784446824-X28U4N33VKCFHV5AYN1H/IMG_0320.jpg Japan The Ghibli Museum is a small museum devoted to the world-renowned Japanese animation studio created by director Hayao Miyazaki. The museum did not allow photos inside but it was very whimsical and amazing for a couple of fans like us. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/54068446e4b087d8052e9fa6/1522784446395-EYQSJKMYQYEOD8H4GV8T/IMG_0322.jpg Japan Outside the Ghibli Museum, "Totoro" (arguably the most famous character from their films) greets you as you head in. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/54068446e4b087d8052e9fa6/1522784453440-R3TYHYHH3Z0FLSAXWBK5/IMG_0328.jpg Japan On our way back into the center of Tokyo after the Ghibli Museum we stopped at a famous mall called "Nakano Broadway". Its famous for its focus on "otaku" collectibles - action figures, anime, manga, and US pop culture toys of all shapes and sizes. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/54068446e4b087d8052e9fa6/1522784611562-YTK8X1JF4T65XSQHGN48/IMG_1216.jpg Japan Thousands upon thousands of collectible small plastic toys at Nakano Broadway. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/54068446e4b087d8052e9fa6/1522784456395-GFC1GGINZONC4FRASPUD/IMG_0333.jpg Japan Finally we found breakfast! On our second stay in Tokyo we stayed near Shinjuku Station - the largest subway station in Tokyo. There are lots of new developments and shopping options adjacent to the station including a Blue Bottle Coffee (excellent high-end San Francisco coffee chain) and a bakery branded by world-famous French chef Joel Robuchon. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/54068446e4b087d8052e9fa6/1522784461208-9GQDRBQ00H97QQJVGB69/IMG_0334.jpg Japan On our 2nd day back in Tokyo it was raining a bit in the morning. We started by exploring the northeastern part of the city, specifically an area known for its multi-story electronics stores and arcades called Akihabara. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/54068446e4b087d8052e9fa6/1522784536693-Y7MVR0EU2G7GXCK17068/IMG_0366.jpg Japan We kept hearing about "Don Quijote" when talking to people and wandering around. Its a chain "department store" in Tokyo but its more like a massive combination 99 cent store and swap meet. This was a photo from the "costume" floor - each floor had a different set of goods, varying from electronics to clothes to sex toys. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/54068446e4b087d8052e9fa6/1522784540977-L7JODF1X5PXNOZLB4H9F/IMG_0367.jpg Japan Steve poses wearing a Dragonball-Z themed hat in Don Quijote. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/54068446e4b087d8052e9fa6/1522784465171-20C7VB7SFHYQJYBE542K/IMG_0337.jpg Japan A typical manga (Japanese comics) store with endless shelves of comics. This particular level featured gay/lesbian manga and a focus on J-POP boy bands. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/54068446e4b087d8052e9fa6/1522784546073-XOKDSUVPK1B4NDQ6F8S8/IMG_0368.jpg Japan A closer look at some of the gay themed manga on this particular floor of a very large manga store. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/54068446e4b087d8052e9fa6/1522784477398-H9QEQYARMQWZBX2I2E0P/IMG_0338.jpg Japan Taito Station is one of the large arcade chains in Japan. This famous multi-story arcade featured new games, old games, and tons of crane games. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/54068446e4b087d8052e9fa6/1522784450917-RWJT5UHDPWWSLSND0YWJ/IMG_0327.jpg Japan Steve posing at a DJ simulation arcade game hearkening back to his glory days (as an actual real-life DJ). https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/54068446e4b087d8052e9fa6/1522784486393-WFLAM71LENS0BEPNQ6H4/IMG_0340.jpg Japan One store Steve wanted to check out was called "Super Potato". Its a multi-level video game store specializing in "retro games". They had in-box versions of every video game system every released, tons of games, and cool gaming themed gifts. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/54068446e4b087d8052e9fa6/1522784492054-SBJ8Y3SIABDISKPKP32W/IMG_0341.jpg Japan After Akihabara, we ventured to one last temple - a very famous one in Northeastern Tokyo called Sensoji Temple. Built in 645 AD, its Tokyo's oldest temple. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/54068446e4b087d8052e9fa6/1522784550085-2YS1AS09PIGHCWHAUNNA/IMG_0369.jpg Japan Steve standing next to one of the giant lanterns at Senso-ji. The rain was picking up and we were getting hungry. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/54068446e4b087d8052e9fa6/1522784495603-PW2CFUP54NAOYVUKZBG3/IMG_0343.jpg Japan The pagoda at Senso-ji. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/54068446e4b087d8052e9fa6/1522784558281-TQOUOYZV8F4PECLKD8X2/IMG_0373.jpg Japan After Senso-ji we stopped at a nearby conveyor belt sushi shop. Every few seats there was a hot water faucet and a small bowl of powdered green tea. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/54068446e4b087d8052e9fa6/1522784562178-9AHIU0E3I8CDGF0V9KDG/IMG_0374.jpg Japan The sushi was pretty good here. We didn't order from the chef directly, we just pulled little trays off the conveyor belt. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/54068446e4b087d8052e9fa6/1522784554411-69OBWLRJOIGXWQIK0T7P/IMG_0372.jpg Japan Sushi and green tea. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/54068446e4b087d8052e9fa6/1522784509756-TIMFOEJ6NSS123S6A5WZ/IMG_0348.jpg Japan Wandering around Shinjuku at night. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/54068446e4b087d8052e9fa6/1522784513288-OJGFCDTIL1WPJ4UVC3B3/IMG_0349.jpg Japan Shinjuku is often noted as being "what you think of" when you think of big neon city lights in Tokyo and the side of this building was no joke. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/54068446e4b087d8052e9fa6/1522784520956-QS5UUXHVGLB2S1XLHQYN/IMG_0356.jpg Japan Typical viewpoint for us on one of many subway rides. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/54068446e4b087d8052e9fa6/1522784529172-WU8Z9IMDC8GOE9BNSGFX/IMG_0359+2.jpg Japan Wandering around Shinjuku at night. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/54068446e4b087d8052e9fa6/1522784531966-ZN6Q757GFBIEYHJEACX6/IMG_0362.jpg Japan Somehow, 10 days into our trip we still managed to find some humor in our constant rushing around and sight-seeing. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/54068446e4b087d8052e9fa6/1522784565490-PR6EXL9Q4M9FPZ0AJJDR/IMG_0375.jpg Japan Alix was on the hunt to find one of these waffle textured fish-shaped treats made fresh and hot in a number of places throughout the city. The inside was filled with a sweet bean paste... it looked more tasty than it actually was. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/54068446e4b087d8052e9fa6/1522784569281-IP5ESNDZE8GD2BWKQ6PW/IMG_0376.jpg Japan One of our goals was to do some shopping at "Kappabashi Street" - known as "kitchen town" in Tokyo. Every single shop on a 6 block section of a particular street is a cookware or knife shop. We found an amazing glassware/bowl shop with a very warm and friendly owner. She made a point to ask us where we were from and we found out she had lived in Santa Monica for many years - she was overjoyed to talk to us about it and made sure to remind us that we HAVE to come back and visit the shop when we come back to Japan in the future. We found some great bowls for our ramen eating stateside! https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/54068446e4b087d8052e9fa6/1522784574853-AW0LZ90JAENSAJ0JID71/IMG_0377.jpg Japan Many restaurants throughout Japan feature plastic versions of menu items in the front window of their shop to entice customers (or to make it easier for tourists to just point at things to order?). This shop on Kappabashi Street was devoted to the art/craft of making these plastic food facsimiles. They were very impressive but also pretty expensive! (Otherwise we would have gotten some to take home as they were so cool) https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/54068446e4b087d8052e9fa6/1522784502531-X32LRM75M3WD7XVU6M2G/IMG_0346.jpg Japan Alix poses at the end of one of the three small alleys that make up a very famous drinking area in Tokyo called "Golden Gai". 5 or so alleys near Shinjuku are home to hundreds of bars (literally), many with odd and specific themes to them (punk bars, western themed bars, etc.) We went to a few of them but they were ultimately expensive - many had a cover charge. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/54068446e4b087d8052e9fa6/1522784581574-I4WD14G7CZYYKQ6LZRLY/IMG_0379.jpg Japan This was our first Golden Gai bar - we got a good vibe from it because of the sign referencing Pink Floyd out front. We ended up staying for a few drinks and chatting with a very friendly and sweet bartender. It was just the three of us so it was fun talking to a real local! https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/54068446e4b087d8052e9fa6/1522784578298-6SFJSXPA55LSOL7Y63K7/IMG_0378.jpg Japan Inside the Pink Floyd bar in Golden Gai. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/54068446e4b087d8052e9fa6/1522784585042-NGMVQCGN110F60WPVEYZ/IMG_0381.jpg Japan Inside the 2nd Golden Gai bar we checked out. The host was very friendly and her daughter and daughter's boyfriend chatted us up for a bit. The host was very funny and we had great conversation although we could tell the daughter probably thought we were just dumb American tourists - she was right! https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/54068446e4b087d8052e9fa6/1522784517397-3R0L2VRE2TNJVHN8TJFM/IMG_0352.jpg Japan The same night we drank in some Golden Gai bars we had to figure out where to eat for our last night in Japan. I was in the mood for yakitori again so after a few missteps finding one, we landed on one underground. Alix poses on the steps down into the joint. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/54068446e4b087d8052e9fa6/1522784588920-ZXG3G4QI4H4ECEBMO5A9/IMG_0383.jpg Japan This yakitori joint was one of the most "locals only" kind of places I think we ate at. I don't think there were any other white people in this raucous underground spot. It was super convenient to order by tablet and it was packed with local teenagers wearing suits smoking cigarettes - a great note to end on! https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/54068446e4b087d8052e9fa6/1522784594243-TZZR00LZVRABR53XZVMS/IMG_0384.jpg Japan Some of the yakitori we had on our last night in Japan. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/54068446e4b087d8052e9fa6/1522784598341-VOV1BV7F3GCVVB8VQSM9/IMG_0387.jpg Japan In trying to get cool gifts for others we had neglected getting ourselves much so we decided our last day in Tokyo should be spent hunting for gifts for us! Unfortunately a very cold rain set in and it did not make for fun shopping weather. Alix was on the hunt for one of these super cool Japan themed silk bomber jackets. We eventually found them at a second hand shop in Harajuku. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/54068446e4b087d8052e9fa6/1522784524700-NLXCW9UNXHPIZK3Z5SWN/IMG_0358.jpg Japan Headed into Shinjuku Station for the last time on our way back to the airport. At this point it had gotten so cold that the rain started freezing and it was snowing! 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